Hello Easel driver,
So you did it, you got an cardOC and wonder what to do ?
Ok, here it goes
- With the Easel turned off, plug in the card.
- Power your 208
- If it starts up, congratulations…if not DON’T PANIC
- Power down again, try again and if it does not work take the card out and do the same routine one more time
- There is a big capacitor in the card that needs to be charged and protects the audio from the OLED noise.
- Make sure all the switches on the right are up, all left ones down and ‘puls’ is up
- Even with all sliders down you should hear a nice sequence playing…this one is yours…i made it just for you
- Play around with pitch of OSC 1 and 2 and adjust them to your liking
- Enable the leftmost lower switch and adjust the sequencer voltage sliders…you should hear transposing notes
- Have fun with the rest..there is so much to explore.
- Some Ins and Outs will make more sense the deeper you get into it. For example the LFO does need triggers.
Please refer to the full manual for all settings, parameters and CV control of the apps
Upgrading the firmware :
When we build your cardOC we always flash it with the latest official firmware
But this is a living project and Max and the crew are constantly working of new versions
So if you find a new one on this site that is not displayed when you start your cardOC you can update it very easily .
You need three things :
- A mini USB cable
- The Teensy uloader program: https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html
- The latest firmware which you fill find in the files section
- Install the loader and start the application
- Drag the firmware file into the small loader window
- Press the green button in the application
- Plug in a USB cable and press the button on the front panel with a paper clip
- The uploader should start flashing the chip and after 3 seconds you are up to date.
Don’t be scared, it’s impossible to brick the module.
When we build the module we do a full calibration of all channels.
Due to harsh temperature differences during transport and the place you live (especially California, Namibia, the sun) the resistance will change and so will the outputs.
If you notice a drift (in a Buchla system, lol) you can hold down encoder A on start and enter calibration.
Make sure to press NO when it asks to use defaults or you delete the calibration done by us.
But no panic, there is a second stage where you need to save if. If it happens just switch it off.
- Connect a multimeter to output A and your common ground.
The 2OC will display a new setting for every press on encoder B.
If you press the left one you go one step back…or you dial back and forth with the left one.
- Navigate to the first value which should be 0V.
- Check your DMM and if it shows a significant drift (0,0x) dial it in with encoder B
- Advance to the next step and do the same…gat close to the value but do not stress about it
Then you will come to the ADC offset.
- Make sure to dial this as close as possible to 0
- Repeat for all four channels
- Then connect a short cable from output D OUT to CV in A and make sure your multimeter shows 1,2V. If that is the case confirm the offset by pressing encoder B for 2 sec.
- Next step is the same procedure but for 3,6V
- Set the timer for the screensaver in the next step
- And when you are happy save your new calibration
Now make some music and keep rocking 😉